Wanderlust

Less than three weeks to our short getaway to Bali for J’s wedding, but I’m once again having itchy feet.

It’s my fault, really, surfing airline sites for their year-end airfare deals is like a buffet spread for someone on a diet.

I feel like going somewhere that is familiar and hassle-free; like to Osaka for ramen, or to Perth for Margaret River wine.

But, is it really bad that I have only been in this new company for less than six months (I think it’s closer to four), and I have already taken more than 15 days’ vacation leave?

Not to mention I must consider the impact of my leave plans for 2011: Greece with the girl friends, the couples’ getaway with the married peeps to Hokkaido, photog trip to India and visiting the boyfriend’s brother in Canberra.

Sometimes I wish I wouldn’t have people judging me for all the time I’d be away from the office. I don’t know how D does it, jetting off to somewhere spectacular every other month (or more).

P/S : And, whatever happened to the promise I made to the boyfriend that I wouldn’t travel anywhere for five years after our exorbitant trip this summer? :p

Adventures in the Land of the Midnight Sun – The Final Chapter

4 July 2010 The Best of Svalbard

“Strange. There is always a sadness on departure. It is as if one cannot after all bear to leave this bleak waste of ice, glaciers, cold and toil.”

– Fridtjof Nansen, 1912

What a trip! The last three days really picked up the pace; I didn’t have any time to write, so I’m cramming it in while waiting to board the plane at Longyearbyen airport.

14 polar bears, I believe, was our last count. Not to mention countless exciting wildlife encounters and just being immersed in the immense beauty (each day a little different from the next) of the Arctic Svalbard.

I’m hard-pressed to find just five images that really encapsulate the experience for me, but I hope these come close:

Cruising the Ice

Jagged peaks

Curious Walrus

Whale Karma

Bear

And in true spirit of the expedition, just as we thought the trip was winding down after all the formal farewells on the last night, came one of the most magical experiences of a lifetime. It was past 11pm when, as we stood on the forward-looking decks under the midnight sun, white-beaked dolphins danced for us by the ship’s bow and a magnificent blue whale – the largest living mammal on the face of the earth and exceedingly rare – surfaced just a few feet from us.

An apt tribute to an absolutely amazing vacation.

Here’s the final list of wildlife sightings:

• Polar bears
• Blue whale
• Fin whale
• Sei whale
• Minke whale
• Beluga whale
• White-beaked dolphin
• Walrus
• Reindeer
• Ringed seal
• Bearded seal
• Puffins, and a bunch of other sea birds

Unbelievable!

All praise for the staff and crew of the National Geographic Explorer on Lindblad Expedition’s “Land of the Ice Bears” voyage from 27 June to 4 July 2010, especially our excellent expedition leader Tim Soper and the awesome team of Naturalists and Photographers. I’m also grateful to Chris Harter from AdventureSmith Explorations who helped us put it together – Chris really went out of his way for these somewhat troublesome and suaku travellers from the tropics. (To those who are interested, I would be happy to put you in touch with him).

Next dream vacation the boyfriend and I are working towards : a 24-day voyage to Antarctica, South Georgia and the Falklands on the Explorer by 2020.

For now, it’s goodbye to the polar wilderness that has so drawn us in over this short visit. Indeed, there is a strange sadness about it. And an even stranger longing to return.

Edit >> All photos are up on my Flickr site : Arctic Svalbard 2010

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Pig is at Longyearbyen airport, Svalbard. 78 degrees, 13 mins north, apparently.

Adventures in the Land of the Midnight Sun – Chapter 8

2 July 2010 Ice Art

Looking for beauty in the frozen planet…

Ice Art I

Ice Art II

Ice Art III

Ice Art IV

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This post was written on board the National Geographic Explorer.

Adventures in the Land of the Midnight Sun – Chapter 7

1 July 2010 In search of Big Foot

We finally saw a polar bear (or “ice bear” as they are called in this part of the world) after four rather frustrating sightings that we quickly lost.

We were beginning to think they were mythical creatures. The passengers sat around trading conspiracy theories over hot chocolate – like how Lindblad had merely placed a stuffed toy on the ice while we were not looking before promptly leading us into a fog.

This bear was sleeping out in the vast, open ice. It was quite a distance away, barely visible through my 400mm lens, but we managed to creep up on it a bit – at least, as much as a 6000-ton vessel breaking through the ice can creep – before it awoke. As we stood out on the decks in silent awe (I believe I was squealing under my breath), it decided the huge, approaching chunk of metal wasn’t something it was keen to stick around for.

The bear scampering / lumbering away while sneaking furtive glances back at us is a sight I will never forget.

Ice Bear

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This post was written on board the National Geographic Explorer.

Adventures in the Land of the Midnight Sun – Chapter 6

30 June 2010 Into the Fog

Not much activity on board today as we sailed right into a fog in pursuit of a polar bear, and spent the next 12 hours trying to navigate out of it.

But I was grateful for the down time, and that I got to capture some pretty haunting images.

Eerie calm before the fog

Ripples

Midnight sun

Into the fog

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This post was written on board the National Geographic Explorer

Adventures in the Land of the Midnight Sun – Chapter 5.2

29 June 2010 Apache Blessing

The boyfriend got me a bracelet from the ship’s Global Gallery which I absolutely adore to bits.

The lovely piece by San Francisco-based jewellery designer Jeanine Payer is hand-engraved with an Apache Blessing which reads:

May the sun bring you new energy by day / May the moon softly restore you by night / May the rain wash away your worries / May the breeze blow new strength into your being / May you walk gently through the world and know its beauty / All the days of your life

Apache Blessing

Apparently, it was meant to be for Christmas, but yes, he isn’t very good with surprises.

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This post was written on board the National Geographic Explorer

Adventures in the Land of the Midnight Sun – Chapter 5.1

29 June 2010 Fjord of Sorrow

This morning we landed at Sorgfjorden and joined the National Geographic photographers for a photo hike. The name translates to “Fjord of Sorrow”, but it was the fjord of amazing experience for me.

It was such an honour to have really excellent photographers such as Lindblad’s Mike Nolan in the company sharing their knowledge and experience with us. The landing site was simply beautiful with so many photographic opportunities that the allocated three hours just weren’t enough. In a 100 meter radius there were walruses sunbathing on the coast, endless stretches of Arctic tundra, a lone cross atop the hill, the unmarked graves of men who had died during a French-Dutch whaling conflict in the 17th century, driftwood (even though there was not a tree in sight) and a trapper’s hut.

The weather is finally starting to feel like the Arctic, but my Muck Boots and Mammut jacket are keeping me warm and toasty.

Old rugged cross

Long hike

Trapper's hut

Expert naturalist and talented wildlife photographer, Mike Nolan

The afternoon was spent on the ship’s bow with our cameras in hand. Trying to spot an ivory bear on the white ice really is an exhausting task, however.

I discovered that 400mm really isn’t all that long for shooting wildlife (heck, even the 1000mm Mike was kind enough to let us try didn’t seem satisfying enough), but I do love my wide-angle.

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This post was written on board the National Geographic Explorer.

Adventures in the Land of the Midnight Sun – Chapter 4

28 June 2010 The Polar Plunge – Krossfjorden, Svalbard

The Polar Plunge

This post is titled “The Polar Plunge” for two reasons. Although we have already been in the Arctic for a day, this was our first time off the boat – at the mercy of the elements and literally getting our feet wet. Secondly, they offered a polar plunge – where you get into your bathing suit and jump into the freezing Arctic waters – at the end of the day.

Apparently, it is uncharacteristic weather for this region today. As it was our virgin landing, we were relatively well-equipped (read: kiasu), but in minutes I had taken off all the layers and was sweating while hiking the Arctic tundra. It was actually warm. I don’t suppose folks sunbathing on the rocky beach is a sight in the Arctic everyday.

No polar bears yet, but we saw a solo beluga whale close up (we hear this is the most any one of the Naturalists on board has seen of a beluga whale as they are usually quite skittish, so it was quite exciting). I also got a pathetic, fleeting glimpse of a puffin as it flew past (they are surprising fast birds actually). Hopefully, we will get a better look over the next days.

I really regret that I was too much of a chicken to try the polar plunge though (those who did got a cool certificate too), but at least I can say I kayaked in the Arctic. :p

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This post was written on board the National Geographic Explorer.

Adventures in the Land of the Midnight Sun – Chapter 3.2

27 June 2010 National Geographic Explorer

“Everyone is an explorer. How could you possibly live your life looking at a door without opening it?”

– Richard Ballard

The boyfriend and I are on the National Geographic Explorer. She’s a beautiful ship, smaller than we had thought, but then again, there are only about 120 passengers on board. The cabins are extremely well-appointed – small but not cramped, with many thoughtful spaces and provisions. We have unpacked and stowed away our luggages, so we will feel at home here for the next seven days or so.

The Explorer

Arctic Circle

We brake for whales

Life is hot chocolate & cookies among the glaciers.

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This post was written on board the ship, but publishing was delayed as we were out of range of internet connection. No excuses for the one month delay after we got back, except that life happened.

Adventures in the Land of the Midnight Sun – Chapter 3.1

27 June 2010 Springboard to the Arctic – Longyearbyen, Svalbard

Longyearbyen, 78°N

Proof that we were there – really!

Because people are starting to wonder, considering there have been no pictures of anything vaguely resembling ice or polar bears lately.

Watch this space.